Carter Mountain Ice : Curtains WI3 = Stellar and Adventurous

“Interesting conditions” is a mild way to describe the water ice route CURTAINS on Carter Mountains north east face. The road in is pretty straight forward. Only mild snow patches cover the road until the last mile before the parking area. You can expect two tracks on packed snow, about 8 inches deep, for the last mile. Some fairly decent traffic marks the most direct trail to the base of the climb. Our first outing of the year found the following : Pitch 1 is as straight forward as usual. Two awkward moves get you into the low angle flow ice and approach to the base of the money pitch. Number 2, is in stellar! The lower section of the route is in somewhat thin, but fat milky ice are your unfaltering friend about twenty feet off the deck. The first third of the pitch is an easy WI2+ scramble to a solid rest before the more interesting business starts. Get a good screw or two here. Direct goes at a solid Cody Ice 3, left gives an opportunity to stem the semi-prominent chimney. We got great screw placements from here up. Pitch 3 is in epic, if you send WI5 M6. The curtain had a small fang on the left side barely reaching the base. The curtain, proper, is in way this and probably should not be touched until fatten up a great deal. The fang, broken and detached at the base, looks like it will take great hooks. Only problem is a run out, cruxy M6 go off the deck to the fang. 20 feet of cruxing will get you through this beast in rewarding fashion. There is a sketchy looking nut about 6 feet left of the fang. It looks old, and we decided after some debate not to try it, and lap the more rewarding (and aboundantly less scary) second pitch. All in all Curtains is probably my favorite WI3 in the Cody area. Easy early and late season access, a short approach, and typically fat conditions make this uncrowded climb and excellent choice for all abilities.

GEAR:

2-3 13mm screws

3-5 16mm screws

2    19mm screws

1   22mm screw

2-3 knife blades or angles

1 60 meter rope

Extra Tat and a few extra ovals for rappels/ lockers for belays

Pitch 2
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