Yesterday I spent a few hours working on a v5 project of mine up a certain hidden valley in the tetons. After flailing on the mantle move attempt after attempt, I moved on. I decided to take my kiester up Teton canyon and hike up the first waterfall boulders with Shasta, my german shepherd. At the trail head, I met up with a recent valley local, Alec, and a buddy of his I had never met. They had another agenda but we decided to stroll up to the boulders together and get in a warm up. We worked my friend B’s recently successful project “B beats” on the slab lab. A pretty beautiful v4/5 slabby face climb of about 18ft. The landing is supper sketch but can be protected well if u have enough pads. Two or three will work great. However, it is extremely helpful to have spotters. Not a good line to boulder solo. I never stuck B Beats. The crux is off the ground in the traverse, no feet, thin hand ledge. After pulling this part of the line, you still have no feet on slick granite and a pretty dynamic full wingspan reach straight up to a thin chicken head. I could get that all day. I could not however stick my stilts back on the wall and set up to move to the “hero” hold. Lol, a shitty sloping rail with a good ledge to stand on but the ledge is under a bulge. Serious balance required. A few failures and I moved on around the corner to try some new lines Ive been eyeing on. Success was in store for me. A few possible first accents and some easy grades at a highball level under the belt. Ive taken some pictures. Ill post them when I get home tonight. But today Im going to check out something new. Palisade Creek’s Weeping Cave and Pines Sector. A limestone crag of 11’s and above with a good handful of bolted open projects. Ive been told the climbing is “better than shitty”. Today, Ill find out what that means. I guess the reason its still pretty unknown is the access. Its a ways up a trail that is shared with many horseback riders and they tend to complain. Yay for cowboys! Just kidding. Nothing wrong with being a poke. Well, B and I are off to check it out after our egg sammy and a coffee. Ill be posting a “how to use” and review of the new Mammut Smart Alpine and some other fun videos. Check back in with me. Ill also be posting all the beta I can find on Palisade Creek. Peace!
Dean Lords on The Basilisk (open project)
Image courtesy of SEIClimbing.com